CTC Cambridge

Wednesday 21 June 2023 

Alex writes: Central to our plan today was a crossing of the Po using the famous pilgrim ferry service run by Danilo Parisi. However, while phoning ahead to confirm we found there is only one crossing today at 0830. Rather than take the tedious detour we decided to get up early and blast along the main road to get the crossing.

And so just after dawn, we set out from Pavia at 0545 for 90 minutes of main road riding in a tight group. Then a sudden turn to the right and we were on a flinty country track that seemed remote in both time and place. We rode down to the landing stage and joined some other pilgrims (all walkers) waiting to cross. Once Danilo arrived we gingerly took our bikes down to the boat and loaded up.

Then we could relax and enjoy the fifteen minute crossing, while Glyn bonded with Danilo over rugby; another pilgrim alerted Bill that he had a flat.

Once on the south side of the Po, Glyn went to perform the solemn ceremony of recording the Flatland Four's details in the pilgrims' log and got our passports stamped; The rest of us set about fixing Bill's puncture by Sigeric's monument.

Once on the road again the temperature rose to 39°C and we rode at a contained pace. One of the advantages of being routemeister is the ability to add personal touches and today I had added a small loop to visit Verdi's birthplace: a pilgrimage within a pilgrimage.

We arrived at our hotel with plenty of time to relax: just as well as the early start and the heat had made the day a draining one.

Word of the day: mica

>>> Next: Day 13 to Aulla